Far North Queensland

Dare to suggest the word ‘bored’ in Cairns and the Far North Queensland region and one may dismiss you as stark raving mad – perhaps rightly so! The region offers a myriad of activities and locations to keep you entertained.

Perhaps the biggest problem you will face is deciding where to go and what to do first. The following will give you a brief taste of what’s available. Detailed information can be easily found on all of these regions and activities on the internet, at tourist bureaus or in books.

Regional Breakdown

This regional break down (from within a few minutes to a few hours from Cairns) may head you in the right direction of your preferred destination.

1.Cairns & Kuranda – buzzing, yet non pretentious, hubs of activity.

2. Port Douglas – Another hub; beachy too, but also very glam and touristy.

3. Northern Beaches – Laid back beach lifestyle with a suburbanite edge.

4. Tablelands -  Where community still counts, plenty of cows and scenic rolling hills.

5. Cooktown and Cape York – Abundant adventures for the brave. Go troppo. 

6. Daintree and Cape Tribulation – Rainforest delight with an ‘earthy’ edge.

7. Great Barrier Reef – Colourful salt water bliss for all the aquatically inclined.

8. Cassowary Coast – A mish mash of all the above in more subtle doses!

9. Savannah/Outback – the wild west for all the wanna-be cow girls and cow boys.

It Helps to Know About…

Roads, Access, Permits

For various reasons some roads may not always be open to the general public.

In some circumstances permits must be arranged to authorise access. In addition to checking for permit requirements, before you travel it is also wise to investigate the condition of roads, particularly during the wet season/summer. Many roads may be impassable due to flooding or bogging.

Tourist information centres, maps, guide books and local knowledge are just some ways to obtain information about the roads in the area you plan to travel. A road condition report can be obtained by phoning the Department of Main Roads on (24 Hours) 1300 130 595 whilst the status of water levels at major bridges can be found on the Bureau of Meterology

Local Wildlife

Wildlife abounds in the tropical north, but not all is as harmless as the stunning Ulysses butterfly. Here’s just a few critters you may like to know about:

• Tilapia
  Tilapia is an exotic fish species found in the rivers and dams of the Far North. Originally from Africa, South and Central America, southern India and Sri Lanka. Originally these fish were introduced into Australia through the aquarium trade .  However, once they were released in the wild they established successful breeding populations at several sites in Queensland, Victoria and Western Australia  With an absence of natural predators in Queensland rivers, it has flourished and is now considered a risk to the health of local river ecosystems as it competes with native fish and other river fauna for food and habitat. Any fish caught are NOT  to be returned to the water. - http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/fishweb/1406.html

• Leeches
  Most of us are familiar with these blood sucking beasties. If you are heading into the rainforest be warned! Wear suitable clothing to limit their access to your skin. You are more likely to come across leeches and their wet weather friends, such as mosquitoes and midges, during the wet season.

• Crocodiles
  Both freshwater crocodiles, and their nastier counterpart, saltwater crocodiles can be found in local waterways. Signs are typically erected where their presence is known. Even where no signs are present it is wise to be cautious at all local waterways. http://www.wettropics.gov.au/pa/pa_crocs.html

• Cane Toads
  Oh what a mammoth whoopsie the cane toad was and remains. In 1935, the toad was introduced to the region from South America. The toad was released in Gordonvale, just south of Cairns, where a charming(!) kids park today marks this historical moment. The toad was employed as a biological control to control the devastating effects of the ‘cane beetle’ in the region’s cane crops. Unfortunately for the biodiversity of the entire Far North, but fortunately for the cane beetle, there was a minor discrepancy between the hight to which the cane toads can jump (bugger all) and the somewhat higher hight to which the cane beetles reside on the cane plant. The rest as they say, is history…. The cane toad population, which henceforth exploded, has been credited with the decline of a number of species in Queensland and the Northern Territory and continues its environmental destruction to the west and south as scientists still try to identify a suitable control method. What do they look like? Classic fairy tale toad really; brown, lumpy, bumpy and very ugly. Having said as much, there are (unfortunate for them) a couple of native frog species which do resemble the cane toad, so don’t embark on any toad cleansing unless you are certain of their identity.

• Cassowaries
  This large native bird species inhabits the rainforests of the Far North. Believed to be in decline, persons are encouraged to drive carefully in cassowary marked areas and to keep a respectful distance from the bird if and when one is encountered. Cassowaries have been known to attack humans if they have been provoked or threatened. Whilst their beaks are a formidable weapon, it is their hefty feet which can cause the most damage with a simple kick.
• Bandicoots
  These inquisitive little critters are generally harmless to humans and whilst they can be fairly readily seen in the wild one is most likely to see them as road kill following an encounter with a vehicle. For those of you visiting the region with dogs or cats, be aware that the Bandicoot is a host to the paralysis tick. Most prevalent in the dry season, the tick when passed on to domestic pets can cause a rapid decline in health, and can cause death and/or a very costly vet bill. Dogs romping in riparian and rainforest areas or even rural residential areas (bandicoot habitat) are probably the most likely to become afflicted as they come into contact with the ticks. Vaccinations are available – ask a local vet.
• Box Jellyfish & Irukandji
  

  Although present throughout the year, between October and May, two highly venomous, and occasionally deadly, marine stingers, the Box Jellyfish and Irukandji, become far more common in the region’s coastal waters. Although stinger nets are in place at a number of popular swimming beaches, they are by no means fool-proof, the stingers can still wash into the nets and Irukandji, which can be tiny, can pass through the nets. If you are determined to swim, consider purchasing a ‘stinger suit’ which is a full length swim suit which will offer some protection from a sting. No matter the time of year, if you intend to swim in the ocean, take a 2 litre bottle of vinegar. The venom can be neutralised if vinegar is applied liberally to the sting area on the victim. The victim should always be taken to hospital, as reactions are often severe (and can be be delayed).

  Don’t forget –  relief from the wet season heat can be found at the myriad of public swimming pools found throughout the region or by enjoying the ‘Lagoon’ in Cairns – a massive free swimming area on the Cairns Esplanade.

Keeping Busy

World Heritage Highlights – Rainforest and Reef

Undoubtably, the two biggest attractions in the Region are the World Heritage Rainforests and the famous, Great Barrier Reef.

The Great Barrier Reef  is a unique and exquisite experience, but no less or more so than the dense, humid rainforests of Far North Queensland.

World Heritage Listing for tracts of rainforest, swamp, mangrove and other valuable habitat between Townsville and Cooktown was declared in 1988. The decision was influenced by mass public awareness generated in the early 1980’s following protests to halt the clearing of land for the Bloomfield track which would threaten parts of the now world famous Daintree rainforest. The Daintree rainforest, now understood to be over 100 million years old, is no longer threatened by logging, however the subdivision of land and pressure of growing tourism will require ongoing careful management.

With more critters and plants than seems possible, the biodiversity found within the region’s rainforest’s is almost ridiculous. With few exceptions, the landscape is an intense mottled green. Wildlife is notoriously difficult to see; well camouflaged in the abundant foliage or simply too high up to see with ease. On a morning stroll the wake-up calls are deafening. With a bit of luck and patience, you will see birds, furry critters and dazzling insects and spiders.

Access to rainforests is generally only possible (and recommended) via walking tracks. ‘Bush-bashing’ isn’t recommended, as much for the welfare of the rainforest as your own – the rainforest will always win. The foliage is typically impenetrable and protects itself with thorns, thorns and more thorns, stinging nettle like foliage (the Stinging Tree), heaps to trip over, cobwebs to bounce off, crocodile inhabited rivers to cross and bugs, bugs, bugs. A real Indiana Jones experience!

Bush Walking and Camping

There’s loads of places to camp and bushwalk, but you will need to remember to book you camping site before you arrive! This is now the standard for many of the national parks and conservation parks in the region. You may also need to enquire about permits to enter some areas.

The best way to access information about Parks (run by the Queensland Environmental Protection Authority)  such as booking camp sites and information on vehicle access, permits, facilities etc.. is here -  parks can be searched by keyword, facilities or alphabetically.  Privately run parks and camping experiences can also be found throughout the region.

Walking tracks throughout the region range from 15 minute paved saunters to day long endurance tests.  There’s a great series of books called: Tropical Walking Tracks, by K. Dungey and J Whytlaw which cover most of the afore mentioned regions – and no, we weren’t paid to write that!

As mentioned earlier, the weather in Cairns can be very hot, but more exhausting to the un-acclimatised walker is the extreme humidity, particularly during the wet season. If the mosquitoes, leeches and abundant bugs don’t deter you from walking in the wet ideally plan to walk with someone who is familiar with the region and who is able to ensure appropriate preparation. If you are determined to go alone, at the very least, before you head off check with the relevant authority on the status of the trail, advise a friend of your plans, check the forecast, take plenty of water (allow at least 2L per hour), maps, insect repellent, sun/rain attire, food and first aid. Ensure you are familiar with what the ‘Stinging Tree’ looks like. According to its unfortunate victims, the sting just keeps on stinging – for weeks and some have even said months. It is said to have a preference for disturbed habitat and as such is quite likely to occur on walking tracks.

I have not heard about any walk trails in the Cairns area which accommodate overnight walkers. Information to the contrary is welcome (link to ‘contact us’ page).

Beaches, Rivers and Lakes 

Water water everywhere! Beaches stretch both north and south and depending on the time of year can appear a murky brown, wind blown or quite perfect!  Keep an eye out for signs warning of crocodiles and be particularly cautious near creek mouths.

Lakes Barrine, Eacham, Tinaroo – to name just three lakes found on the Atherton Tablelands. The man-made Lake Tinaroo is a hive of activity during all but the rainiest periods. A popular location for fishing, water skiing and other water sports, peace and quiet isn’t always achievable during the peak season! Camping is allowed (book first) and thanks to its 200km massive perimeter, despite its popularity, it is possible to find a site that’s not entirely consumed by 4WD’s, boats, toys and tents – most of the time!

Lakes Barrine and Eacham are both crater lakes located within the World Heritage Area which offer a much more serene (most of the time!) lake-side experience.

Rivers and creeks seem to be around every bend in North Queensland. Their flow and riparian vegetation create endless images of tranquillity wether you peer from the car window or picnic for the day. Alas for the picture of serenity must be interrupted by a reptilian reality check. Before throwing in your fishing line, heading in for a swim or washing your cup, check the croc status of the area. Few of the larger rivers in the region are free of crocodiles, and of those isolated areas that are considered ‘croc free’, often its only the case because the locals “haven’t seen one here for years” – not because they can’t get there! During the wet season a number of the region’s bigger rivers flood bridges causing road closures, often for just 24 hours, but it may be days or weeks. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!

A special mention should be granted to the Lagoon. An extraordinary public facility located on the Cairns Esplanade. Effectively it is a giant free public swimming pool – with full time lifeguards – designed to accommodate all ages. Also on the Esplanade, skate parks, bike tracks and exercise areas, but a sure hit with the kids is the playground which includes not only innovative play areas, but a fabulous and safe water play area for young kids and toddlers.

Fishing

Before you go be sure to check out the local fishing rules and regulations.

Department of Primary Industries and Fisheries
www.dpi.qld.gov.au
13 25 23
(07) 4044 1600

In particular if you plan on fishing in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park, be sure to check with the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority (GBRMPA) on boundaries, zoning and fishing limits. 

Honestly, we thought about writing our own section, but it seemed somewhat ludicrous given the comprehensive content of the  Fishing Cairns website. Have they missed anything? – let us know.

Local Events

Need more to do?

Check with the Information Centres for current scheduling of events. Months given are based on past events. To name just a taste of regional activities:

• Port Douglas Carnivale
• Great Wheelbarrow Race – May
• Mt Garnet Rodeo/Races – May
• Reef & Rainforest Carnivale – May
• Cooktown Discovery Festival – June
• Laura Aboriginal Dance Festival – June
• Cairn Show – July (tours through the Tablelands also)
• Mareeba Rodeo – July
• Chillagoe Country Music Festival – July
• Great Pyramid Race – Aug
• Mt Carbine Rodeo - Aug
• Festival Cairns – Aug/Sept
• Tully Golden Gumboot Festival- Sept
• Yungaburra folk festival - October
• Tinaroo Barra Bash – Nov

The market circuit around Cairns and the Tablelands is fabulous. The markets showcase locally grown foods, and handcrafted goods – in most areas the markets go on hiatus during the peak of the wet season.

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